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TOURISM – In Tuscany, the city of Lys offers many treasures. We rediscover this city-museum in 2022 by taking three steps aside to better embrace it.
At the water’s edge on the Arno
Tommaso, with a high Italian accent, juggles between French and English, the paddle and an overflowing energy. Studies in Political Science in his pocket, a Ph.D on information and a career as a consultant later, he finally heard the call of the sirens of the sea and the rivers. He founded Toscana Sup – Walk on Water in 2012 and offers Stand Up Paddle rides (all levels) on the Arno. In two hours, it offers another discovery of Florence, from the waves, notably passing under the Ponte Vecchio and near the Uffizi Gallery. This dive into history can be longer: in 2020, Tommaso set up a six-hour circuit, still on the Arno, crossing the Chianti hills to reach the city. The departure is from the village of Il Girone, twenty minutes by bus from Florence. This year, Tommaso pushes a little further by organizing excursions of two or three days with overnight stays in a tent at the edge of the water or in B&B.
Toscana Sup – Walk on Water, two hours in Stand Up Paddle from €49 per person; six hours from €129 per person and two days from €300 per person (transfer, guide, snacks, insurance included). Tailor-made tour possible. Such. +39 333 44 68 648. toscanasup.org.
Everyone at the factory!
A few stops by bus from the city center, the Manifattura Tabacchi leaves its tobacco leaves far behind to write a new page of history. Closed in 2001 after more than 70 years of activity, this tobacco factory gave way to a factory for all kinds of creative people. End of 2022, will open The Factory bringing together an avant-garde production center of culture, fashion, art and crafts. In the meantime, many cultural activities are already scheduled, ranging from cinema screenings to open-air concerts to recordings in the LoudLift, a music studio in an elevator (open to all)! Not to mention the new NAM – Not a Museum which organizes exhibitions and performances…
The Maniffatura Tabacchi is an inspiring hive. In addition to permanent designer studios, the Polimoda fashion school, the Accademia di Belle Arti and, since 2020, the Institute of Crafts of Excellence LVMH (EMI) have settled there. Designed between 1933 and 1940, this rationalist-style factory (some even mention “fascist” lines) is said to have come into being under the hand of the architect Pier Luigi Nervi. Today it is the subject of one of the largest urban regeneration projects in Italy under the plans, in particular, of the Sanaa agency (renovation of La Samaritaine and the Louvre-Lens Museum). This development, enriched by more than 1,000 trees that will be planted, will be completed by 2026.
Manifattura Tabacchi, Via delle Cascine 35, 50 144 Florence. Price varies according to the activities. manifatturatabacchi.com.
A Branded Eden
An urban garden that is growing visibly… Gucci Garden refers to an imaginary space populated by plants and animals based on an idea by Alessandro Michele, Creative Director of Gucci. In a 14th century Florentine palace, the exhibition Archetypes presents the sets and inspirations of the latest advertising campaigns conducted since the arrival of the designer in the famous fashion house. From butterflies to “cuckoo” clocks, from wigs to the dance floor, the staging offers an immersive experience… which makes you hungry. On the ground floor, the starred restaurant Gucci Osteria by Massimo Bottura, is led by chef Karime López. From the plate, sewing moves on to the store where you can find the Gucci wardrobe. And, since February 2022, the “garden” has been enriched with a new café and cocktail bar, the Gucci Giardino 25, open all day and evening. Located in another building in the piazza, the place wonderfully honors the spirit of the former tenant who was a florist. Generous bouquets welcome visitors. The menu, short and simple at lunchtime and in the evening, can be paired with a cocktail. Reservation recommended on weekends.
Gucci Garden, admission from €12. Piazza della Signoria 10, 50122 Florence. guccigarden.gucci.com.
Gucci Osteria by Massimo Bottura, main course from €25. Piazza Della Signoria 10, 50 122 Florence. Such. : +39 055 7592 7038. gucciosteria.com.
Gucci Giardino 25, main course from €13, cocktail from €16. Piazza della Signoria, 37r, 50122 Florence. Such. +39 055 7592 7012. guccigarden.gucci.com.
artistic diving
Art in Florence is on every street corner, on a facade or behind it. Both sometimes as is the case with the Collezione Roberto Casamonti housed in the delightful 16th century Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni. Founder of the Tornabuoni Art gallery (present in Florence, Milan, Forte dei Marmi, Paris, and Crans Montana), Roberto Casamonti has been sharing with the general public since 2018 his private art collection built up over nearly 40 years and ranging from the 1960s until today. The biggest names rub shoulders there: Pierre Alechinsky, Marc Chagall, Christo, Anish Kapoor, Sol Lewitt, Giorgio Morandi, Robert Rauschenberg… A nice escape from the often crowded museums…
Collezione Roberto Casamonti, entry €10. Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni, Piazza Santa Trinita1, 50123 Florence. Such. : +39 055 602030. collezionerobertocasamonti.com.
Art apart
In the Santa Croce district, you have to strain your ears to hear the whispers of the walls of the complex The Murat. In the 16th century, this place was one of the most important convents in Florence. It ceased its activity in 1808 and, forty years later, was transformed into a prison. From one form of isolation to another… The prison was finally transferred outside the city in 1983, leaving the original buildings empty. The municipality then decided to give them a social and cultural character. Thus, according to a preliminary study by Renzo Piano, Le Murate is reborn and the MAD (Murate Art District) opens in 2014. Exhibitions, concerts, debates… There is always something going on here. We had almost forgotten it by now. It’s a delicious step aside – free of charge. Valeria Mulessa’s permanent work, a sound installation, echoes the spirit of the place in the former prison.
MAD (Murate Art District), free admission. Piazza delle Murate, 50122 Florence. Such. : +39 055 247 6873. murateartdistrict.it.
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