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Comment s’y retrouver dans le raz de marée des montres sportives ?

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The sports watches have never been talked about so much. By sports, we mean those models linked to the world of athletes through their look and functionality, or to the exploits that watch manufacturers support at sea, on land and in the air. At this very moment, in Geneva, the prestigious auction house Christie’s is offering a sale around several iconic references such as the Nautilus by Patek Philippe or the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet, 50 years old this year and not a wrinkle.

Omega's Speedmaster 57 is making a comeback in a Master Chronometer version with a slim profile case.

Omega’s Speedmaster 57 is making a comeback in a Master Chronometer version with a slim profile case.

In terms of novelties, certain essential models are revisited – the Navitimer by Breitling and the Speedmaster 57 by Omega, recently – while others reaffirm their presence through new versions (Carrera x Porsche by Tag Heuer, the Black Bay Pro by Tudor) or new dials (the Legend Diver by Longines). Even the classic masters dabble in sporty elegance, like Grand Seiko, with its Evolution 9 collection. And the list goes on and on.

The Propilot X Caliber 400 from Oris.

The Propilot X Caliber 400 from Oris.

In other words, they look just as good with office attire during the week as they do for a casual boat trip at the weekend. The so-called diver’s watches are also acclaimed for their qualities of solidity and water resistance but also for their look, which has become a watchmaking classic.

Alongside this safe bet, the Swiss brand has just launched Propilot X Caliber 400, a model designed in steel from the case to the bracelet. “All-metal is the success of the moment in terms of materials, notes Nicolas Amsellem, editor-in-chief of the Les Rhabilleurs website. But the athlete practices other obligatory exercises such as the chronograph, a feature that allows race times to be measured using a needle activated by a push button. »

Breitling revisits the Navitimer with, in particular, color dials.  (Franz J. Venzin)

Breitling revisits the Navitimer with, in particular, color dials. (Franz J. Venzin)

With its slide rule, notched bezel and trio of sub-dials, the look of Breitling’s Navitimer has more than once caught the eye, especially of collectors, since its launch in the 1950s. highly prized by pilots, it is now used to navigate… through life thanks to its modernized design and six dial colors. On the racing side, the Swiss watchmaker has entered the triathlon with the Endurance Pro, which has just presented its new Ironman editions.

“A way to reconnect with an achievement and, in a way, with your child’s soul”

Vincent Coquet, Marketing Director Oris France

Louis Vuitton offers a Chronograph GMT version of the Tambour Outdoor.

Louis Vuitton offers a Chronograph GMT version of the Tambour Outdoor.

For more occasional athletes, an Ironman model of the Endurance Pro is offered in the permanent collections. “In the connected age, sports watches obviously no longer have any real practical function, concludes Vincent Coquet from Oris. We choose to buy one to wear the concentrate of a universe or a story on the wrist. It’s a way of reconnecting with a feat and, in a way, with your child’s soul. »

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